History
The origination of the surfboard and surfing has a varied
background. Many people say that the concept developed in Hawaii and that
Polynesians contributed to its creation. It is believed that the ships of
Captain James Cook, which were called HMS
Discovery and Resolution, made the first known visit to Hawaii from
Europe. Crewmen saw people surfing in Hawaii and say that the sport was popular
there when Captain Cook arrived.
During the fourth century A.D, many think that Polynesians
first came to Hawaii where they used belly boards. It is believed that they
stood on the boards as well. However, it is said that they probably knew basic
surfing skills, while the concept of standing on boards started and developed
in Hawaii.
Surfing is sometimes known as the “sport of kings” because
Hawaiian royalty were once the primary surfers. Surfing became a part of the
Hawaiian culture and in 1819 others were also permitted to surf. However, when
western missionaries came to Hawaii in the 1800s, surfing was banned. The sport
was then permitted again by the 1900s. Duke Kahanamoku, who was from Waikiki
Beach, shared the sport of surfing with others, including with the mainland of
the United States and Australia.
Surfboard Design
George Freeth, the “Father of Modern Surfing”, was born in
Hawaii and was known as the first professional surfer in the world and the
first surfer of Southern California. Freeth amazed onlookers when he
demonstrated his surfing skills at Redondo Beach.Freeth also became the first
official lifeguard in the country and created a lifesaving device.
Tom Blake is known as the inventor of hollow
surfboards. By using waterproof glue and a plywood frame construction, he
changed the construction of a surfboard from its solid construction. This
helped to reduce the weight significantly, and it also benefited the
performance. Hollow surfboards that are lighter and water-repellent are
aerodynamic surfboards, especially compared to the original solid ones.
The design of the surfboard continues to change. Balsa wood
became popular as the hollow redwood surfboard was no longer used. Balsa wood
surfboards were lighter and better suited for the water. Surfers have worked on
improving the performance of the board, including the stability of the
surfboard and the fin of the surfboard.
A surfboard's design can be reflective of the inventions
during a time period, such as the invention of fiberglass. The first fiberglass
surfboard was created by Pete Peterson. And the surfboard that was developed by
Bob Simmons, a California builder, was made of materials such as foam, plywood,
balsa wood, and fiberglass. From balsa wood to lightweight fiberglass, the
surfboard has evolved with improved designs and technologies. Various types of
surfboards continue to be developed.
Outer Banks Surfing
Outer Banks surfing takes place on more than 100 miles
of the coastline and is considered one of the best surfing regions on the east
coast. Due to the shape of the Outer Banks coast plus the sandbars, piers, and
other structures, the barrier islands offer unique and ever-changing surfing
conditions. In addition, hurricanes and nor'easters create ridable swell that
draws surfing enthusiasts from around the globe.
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